Sunday, January 11, 2009

ten best edits in usa fashion mags jan-june 2008

Best USA Fashion Edits Jan-June 2008:
#1 best edit in usa fashion mags jan-july, 2008:
W APRIL 2008:: sasha, agnete h, suvi, guinevere by roversi. actually in some ways this edit equals or surpasses weber's. i am so so into sasa & agnete. suvi's a bit of a loose dirty tramp but shes an excellent model. guinevere Im pretty over but she did great stuff like 5 yrs ago. actually roversi's new photo show at pace in nyc is guinevere. i will see that this weekend. the abstracted impressionistic blurred colours here is dream like heavenly and genius. the line up of photogs that W gives us is incredible. teller. weber. mert/marcus. inez/vinoodh. mcdean. lorca-dicorcia. and roversi is arguably as god as any, well maybe i like weber & teller a touch more but its reallly close. and alex white's styling here is worldf class, genius too. youve got to see this dream like edit , sasha, agnete, the clothes, the colours, the blurry... its amazing it might be the best edit of 2008 ALSO ! love it. 11+/12 of 10 !!


#2 best edit :
W APRIL 2008:
new orleans by bruce weber w/karen elson. weber's 2006 kate/detroit edit was my #1 of that year. this is similar, and fairly close. its a subjective and sensitive look at a soulful us city. weber's affection for NO is obvious. his eye is as great, specific & far-ranging as ever. karen's 2008 come-back is amazing. i loved her in 2000 & shes still doing it. how does karen compare to kate in 2006? at least as beautiful, yet not quite as earthy/sensuous or 'actress.' kate REALLY inhabited that edit. karen's great, but kate was a bit better. i like Dr. John here. karen is n amazing singer. i wish W had included a karenj CD, rather than that dumb dvd they gave us for "ART" issure 2007. karl templer's styling here is brilliant, he & weber work hand in glove with karen. love the fats domino. and the native indian chief. this will likely be among top 3 edits of 2008, but i dont think its quite as great as kate/detroit/2006 [think of kate making out with vinyl LPs scattered there!!] but karen's real good & templer rocked the styling. rating : 11+ of 10 its among very very best of 2008.

#3 Best edit:
W MARCH 2008:
"pin up" by mert and marcus. vegas show girl special with supes. shannan, suvi, daria, lara, raquel best. amber D&G her best in years. alex white styles, fishnets & deconstruction. one of sexiest but still tasteful. not raunchy, its sensuous genius edit. 10 of 10. also meghan collison, guinevere, angie, kate. nice to see devon aoki again. raquel dior white tux bare bottom.

#4 best edit:
W MARCH 2008:: "harlem day" craig mcdean alex white. among best lara stone to date. fifties, sixties make up, hair perfect. even meghan collison not bad here. just kidding, meghan diane arbus-like. harlem brown stones, atmosphere just superb. alex whites 1960 styling beyond great. mcdean here maybe surpasses mert/marcus. retro look, yet perfect 2008 wow !!!! aesthetically this may surpass editorial #1. mcdean, lara, white all earn bonuses. retro futurism here epitomizes harlem 1958-2008. which is best, this or 'pinup'? on pure aesthetics this is best. but overall impact, mert/marcus win. 9.9 of 10.

#5 edit:
W FEB 2008:
lily cole in dc by juergen teller. teller might be the best W photog of recent years. he actually makes lily c sexy here & that is nearly unprecedented [Ive seen maybe 3 great lily edits ever, W years ago & then 1 each in uk & paris vogue i think]. anyway teller really gets creative with the dc momuments/backgrounds here. but what actually makes this edit so genius is camilla nickerson's styling,. as usual she just thinks outside the box in presenting many sexy, diaphanous, transparent looks - and thus lily's sensuous quotient goes way up. really i love every pic & look here but the marc/armani limo & miu miu blouse/shorts pics are partic extraordinary. its another epic length 28 page teller w edit & as youve seen in 2006 & 2007, when teller is at this level hes pretty much delivering the best photos in any us mag, and maybe worldwide [perhaps paris vogue at its best matches this]. youve got to see camillas styling, lilys beauty & the brill DC settings. amazing 9.5 of 10.

#6 edit:
W JUNE 2008::
heidi mount, elsa sylvan & abbey lee by mcdean. W tous this as a futuristic edit & Id have to say thats accurate. the setting appears to be Bonneville salt Flats in UT & that is quite a lunar /other-worldly landscape, wit the endless flat plane and salty white ground. alex white styled here shes just so amazing in W monthly, I mean grace coddington is super accomplished in us vogue monthly but alex [like camilla nickerson also in W] just thinks way outside the box. these are such cool future looks almost a BladeRunner thing in the desert. every look kicks ass, marc, pugh, balen, jil, ysl, margiela, V&R, Gio, lanvin, prada, giles. when Vogue gave us that stupid 'superheroes' edit with coco it tried to be future, but it was just a mash. this is a future edit & the clothes really tell a story. plus I love the girls here, heidi's looking better every time in W, abbey is gorgeous & elsa is at least as cute as abbey. the way mcdean shoots in W runs rings around his good, but safe, vogue work. this is an exemplary 2008 fashion shoot & is another reason why W is the best in USA. 9.5 of 10. oh the makeup is out of this world too :)

#7:
W FEB 2008 natasha poly & lily d by thompson. wow totally great night time edit in vegas. deep sexy sapphic set pieces, poly is as great as shes been in a few years & lily d , as usual is a total top 5-10 worldwide supe. in fact in some ways this shoot takes these girls to a diff place than we usually see. karl templer's styling of chic evening looks in white & black is so great - he actually delivers more than thompson's pics, altho for thompson its a strong job, usually he shoots dull actresses. oh yeah these are good evening looks & compositions. similar to that W 2007 edit with rhoda, that was mert/marcus i think? or inez? similar night time pool scene? anyway that 07 W shoot took rhoda where she hadnt previously gone & this does it with poly & lily d. love the clothes & thompson does shoot an excellent fashion edit a few times a year in w - and this is his best in recent memory. Great!! 9.2 of 10

#8:
BAZAAR FEB 2008:: julia stegner by solve sundsbo. in 2007 julia was my #2 model behind trentini. looking at these pics im reminded that julia is the best model alive & possibly the greatest ever. these are swim looks shot in the desert. the piocs are fine, altho lindbergh, mert/marcus, richard misrach and many others have done better with this. but george cortina only has to style some sleek & abbreviated b&w swim/resort looks on julia & its the best thing Ive seen in a us mag in months. its pathetic that anna wintour gives us like 2 or 3 julia edits ever in vogue. HB has her every year or so & its the best modelling in any us mag. Im serious julia is the greatest model ive ever seen & whenever i see her in person I am breathless like no woman has ever affected me. for real. 9.1 of 10.


#9:
W MARCH 2008:: "Fire" by sorrenti and camilla nickerson. cathy mcneil so smoking here, best. toni garrn looks like goddess blonde. poly good but no mcneil, garrn. guinevere flashback this month slightly trite. why cast isabeli, some favour owed? sorrenti's lights and smoke machine rock!! this is true sorrenti, not bazaar. sexy and colourful but with content. mcneil brings fire she is incendiary. garrn classic beauty she speaks english? sorrenti shines here sex and light. cathy mcneil lit, she's the bomb. 9 of 10
camilla style here, and above, peerless. camilla and mcneil make sorrenti go.

#10:
BAZAAR MAY 2008:: julia stegner by tom munro. jules is the greatest model I have ever seen in my life & her 6'1" goddess frame is never better than when in swim. the hermes pic here is 1 of the best in any US fashion mag of 2008. the fact that Glenda gives us julia every 2 or 3 months in HB while anna hasnt used her in years is enough to make me declare HB a better US fash mag than vogue. arianne phillips edited lots of resort style looks theyre good, the pictures are better than that & julia is the best model ever. more work like this and she is going to top trentini or whomever for best model of 2008 at the end of the year. she is incredibly gorgeous in ferragamo pic. julia is #1 !! 9 of 10.

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